Stop in the Name of Princi

LONDON, UK - The Milanese bakery sensation Princi boasts in nome del pane as its motto, translated as "in the name of bread." And really, why not? Second only to love, delicious homemade bread is one of the more compelling motivations this life has to offer.

Alan Yau (he of Hakkasan and Busaba Eathai renown) is responsible for importing a branch of the wildly successful bakery direct from Milan, where Rocco Princi pioneered a new concept of panetteria that was just as popular for morning coffee as it was for a post-work glass of wine. The concept translates nicely in Soho, where everyone from office workers and tourists to cool twentysomethings and nannies with hungry charges passes through.

On a recent visit, I found myself smack in the middle of this charming chaos, complete with customers queuing out the door for counter-service-only ordering and then jockeying for seats at the long communal tables. Wide glass counters display the mouthwatering baked treats, which range from hearty boules to delicate patisserie. Further offerings include pizzas and sandwiches, along with Italian coffee and a small selection of wines.

Hard as it is, you simply must decide what you want before you get in line to order. I learned a smidge too late that there are separate registers for drinks, sweets, and savories -- so no last-minute-inspiration ordering is possible here. Commit, and then get thee to the proper queue.

Once I'd secured my treats and a spot at a table (no easy feat), I was able to tune out the chaos and soak up the soothing atmosphere. Radiating warm earth tones, the space is wrapped in rosy tiles and lit with cozy glowing lamps. Though it was birthed in the fashion epicenter of the world (Giorgio Armani allegedly designed the bakery's staff uniforms), Princi is decidedly casual -- anything from jeans and t-shirt upwards will do just fine. For a yummy, quick bite, it's hard to improve upon. Well, except perhaps for more seating and a more organized counter system.

But what of this much-fussed-about bread? Beech-oven-fired and made with organic wholemeal flour, it's ridiculously fresh and fabulous. The olive bread, especially, is to die for. Just be sure to bring along some dough of your own -- it's cash only. Mangia!

Princi
135 Wardour St.
Soho, London
(44) 020-7478-8888
www.princi.co.uk

Covent Garden Hotel: Quite an Upgrade from Your Sleeping Bag

LONDON, UK - I always loved slumber parties growing up: gossiping with the girls, trying beauty treatments straight out of teen magazines, indulging in munchies, watching a fun John Hughes movie, and at some point, getting in much-needed sleep in a not-so-comfy sleeping bag.

The Covent Garden Hotel reminds me of a grown up, sophisticated slumber party by way of the British. There's plenty to gossip about -- you're likely to run into a celeb or two on holiday. There's a beauty room operated by Jenny Waite for all of your beauty/spa treatment needs. The munchies at any hour are covered by Brasserie Max. And finally, the cozy rooms are individually designed with feminine touches like bright pink floral wallpaper. Yes, this is definitely a hotel to check into with girlfriends -- or a man in touch with his feminine side.

It's also an ideal place for theatre lovers, as it's in the heart of the theatre district and a short walk to the Royal Opera House. I tend to prefer other neighborhoods better (Soho, Kensington, Mayfair, Knightsbridge) for their less busy and less touristy feel, but it's all a matter of preference.

Despite its bustling location, the hotel is quieter than sister properties Soho Hotel and Charlotte Street Hotel, all part of the cool, eclectic Firmdale group (also the owner of NYC’s Crosby Street Hotel). It's also a bit more private than these other properties. The drawing room and Tiffany Library, where you can take afternoon tea, are located upstairs on the first floor (Brit speak for the US’ second floor) to allow for a more exclusive ambiance away from the ground floor's hubbub. These touches make it a favorite among celebs looking for a dose of privacy.

If you really want to channel the slumber party energy, spring for The Four-Poster Suite, which boasts the largest bed in London (eight square feet!!!). Pick up some titles from the hotel's extensive DVD library (Bridget Jones and Sliding Doors are musts! or at least for us it was), order some 24-hour room service, and you're all set.

Crosby Street Hotel
10 Monmouth St.
Covent Garden, London
www.firmdale.com

RL contributed to this post.

Yes we CAAM: a day at the California African American Museum

LOS ANGELES, USA- When it comes to visiting museums, I have a bit of a Goldilocks complex. Large city museums with extensive collections (like Los Angeles' "three bears" of art -- the Getty, LACMA, and MOCA) overwhelm me, while small, niche museums (Museum of Neon Art, anyone?) often feel too specialized to be worth the visit. What I really appreciate in a museum is a collection focused enough that I can leave with a sense of satisfaction and a perspective worldly enough that I can walk away with new insight, too.

The California African American Museum (CAAM), in these ways, is just right. The museum is located in Exposition Park (southwest of downtown and right across from the University of Southern California) in the cluster of museums which includes the California Science Center and the Natural History Museum. If you're making a stop at these larger museums, or even if you're not, CAAM is definitely worth a visit. The small scale of the museum, with just three full-sized exhibition galleries, makes it manageable in a couple of hours.

CAAM gets to the heart of the California experience. The state has long represented the progressive spirit and independence of the west at the same time as it has been a site of multicultural struggle with its proximity to Mexico and the Pacific Rim. As early as 1849, California adopted anti-slavery policies and later passed progressive laws against segregation. However, such legal equality did not always translate into social equality for its African American population. Nonetheless, African Americans who migrated west from the south -- especially during World War II when jobs were plentiful -- developed thriving communities and significantly shaped California culture.

The permanent collection aims to trace the journey of African Americans from their ancestral homes in West Africa all the way to the Pacific Ocean. This is a bit of a tall order, so there are many gaps, of course, and it all seems like a work in progress. The temporary exhibitions were in fact much more engaging. "Harlem of the West" offered a collection of photographs, posters, music, video, and poetry that brought to life the jazz-centric culture that thrived in San Francisco's Fillmore District in the late 1940s and early 1950s. "Dance Theatre of Harlem: 40 Years of Firsts" displayed original costumes, photos, and memorabilia from the world's only black classical ballet company.

Because of its small size, the museum has a bit of a "do-it-yourself" feel. There's no need for large maps and dense audio guides. Outside "Harlem of the West," I picked up a laminated sheet that served as a guide to the exhibit and put it back when I was done for the next visitor. If you do want a tour, they can be arranged in advance (consult the website for times and details).

Overall, I left the museum with a deeper understanding of the delicate racial mix within the Golden State and the trials and triumphs of its people. Take that, LACMA!

600 State Drive, Exposition Park
Los Angeles, CA 90037
323-744-7432
Website
Map

By Rachel Levin

Deciding what not to eat at artful Dali Courtyard

BEIJING, CHINA- The “Dali” in the name of Dali Courtyard, an atmospheric Beijing eatery, refers to a city in Yunnan province, not to the surrealist Spanish painter. But the artful restaurant and the outlandish artist share a certain simpatico: an ability to create an ambient world of individuality.

We had a little bit of a hard time finding Dali Courtyard, which is hidden on a tiny hutong near the Drum Tower. A few more signs in the surrounding hutong would have been helpful! But its hideaway feel is certainly part of its charm. In summer, you can dine alfresco in the intimate open courtyard. In winter, meals are served inside the house, which has been turned into a cozy, toasty den, complete with warming jazz on the turntable.

The dining experience is a little bit like entering a surrealist painting where you’re the absolute focal point. Instead of looking over a pre-arranged menu and deciding what to eat, you must decide what you will not eat. Allow me to explain: diners specify food that they don’t (or can’t) consume, choose from 3 pricing options (generally 120RMB to 300 RMB), and aside from that, the gloves are off. The chef creates for you and your party an individually tailored eight-course set menu – “bespoke Yunnan,” if you will. You might be served dishes such as Yunnan sausage, papaya salad, grilled fish, spicy mushrooms, or crumbled chili fish – a journey through Southwest China right on your taste buds. Yunnanese cuisine has absorbed influences from many of its neighbors, like Vietnam and Burma, giving it a lighter, sweeter character than other Chinese fare.

We were grateful that the staff spoke English proficiently enough to understand our specific food preferences and needs. Those with allergies: rest assured they will understand your requests. That said, if you’re a vegetarian (or will be dining with one), you’ll want to let them know when you make your reservation to give the kitchen adequate time to prepare.
The food was undoubtedly good, but we loved just soaking up the ambience. It oozes “Old Beijing” character, with a mix of Chinese foodies, expat locals, and tourists composing the crowd. For all its tailored service and food, this is a very casual restaurant, leisurely and super chilled-out. Jeans, a trendy top, and comfy flats sufficed as attire. As you while away the evening and time flies by, you’ll be reminded of another artistic Dali connection – the melting clock!

Dali Courtyard
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong
Gulou Dong Dajie
Dongcheng district
Phone: 840 41430
Website



RL contributed to this post

Paparazzi-worthy plates (without platitudes) at Angelini Osteria

LOS ANGELES, USA - In trendy corners of Los Angeles, stepping out in layers (tunic top, boyfriend cardigan, infinity scarf) is the essence of chic. But at Angelini Osteria, the only layers that really matter are the ones in the to-die-for lasagna verde (spinach pasta, beef and veal ragu, and oh-so-delicious béchamel).

Jenn and I learned of the focus on food, not fashion, on a recent visit to this ever-crowded, perpetually hot spot. Though Chef Gino Angelini has been earning accolades since he first arrived in town in 1995 and has cooked for the likes of Pavarotti and Fellini, his namesake osteria focuses on simple, rustic, country Italian specialties. The sophisticated yet “homestyle” menu, as well as a deep Italian wine list, draws an über-foodie crowd invested more in what’s on the plate than what’s off the runway.

Décor is all about clean lines of trendy minimalism, but the small space means the crowd is not at all minimal. In fact, the place bustles with an animated din, helped by at least one or two groups at any given time. When we visited for lunch, there was a group of women festively celebrating with sparkling wine and a substantial amount of wine (I highly doubt any of them was in the frame of mind to return to work that afternoon). The chatty and closely spaced tables, oddly enough, didn’t seem intrusive or distracting; instead, it was pleasant and made for a spirited dining atmosphere.

I started with the grilled quail antipasti, delicious paired with guanciale (cured pork cheek) and saba sauce (reduced grape must). I couldn’t do a primi and secondi course (my dress was not that forgiving) so I decided that I just couldn’t pass up a chance for some of that herb-infused, dozen-layer lasagna verde, a recipe from Angelini’s grandmother, Nonna Elvira – simply a revelation (you can even pick up a whole pan of the stuff to go). Jenn, on the other hand, eschewed the primi course for the whole branzino roasted in a sea-salt crust, a thoroughly scrumptious choice. Good service smoothed the transition between one plate and the next, so we could keep our heads down and our eyes on the culinary prize. And, the host was utterly charming; I fully admit to falling prey to his enchanting conversation.

Angelini’s food proved to have all the stardust of a Hollywood dining favorite without an ounce of showy glitz. Wear something cute, but save the sparkles for an occasion when you don’t need to fight the food to be the center of attention.

Angelini Osteria
7313 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA
323.297.0070
Website


RL contributed to this post.

Be there or be square: brilliant cuisine and swish surrounds at The Square

LONDON, UK - As far as geometric shapes go, squares tend to get a bad rap. Triangles (especially of the love variety) hold a certain intrigue; circles have that 360 degrees of completion thing going for them, with all the attendant symbolism of coming full circle. Squares, on the other hand, get used to represent entirely less desirable outcomes: to be called "square" is an insult of the highest order, and having to go back to square one is rarely a thrill.

Luckily, London's celebrated The Square restaurant gives the much-maligned geometric shape a good name by associating "square" with more fanciful shapes: a pair of Michelin stars. With Phillip Howard behind the stoves, the notion of a "square meal" goes much beyond nutritious sustenance to something polished and elegant. This is New French cuisine at its most accomplished.

You might want to get your finances squared away before paying a visit, though, because even with the best money-saving intentions here, you'll be tempted by more expensive offerings. I went for the £30 set lunch -- a two-course square deal -- but ended up lured to items off the a la carte menu: assiette of Pyrenean lamb and roast foie gras. Though prices are steep, the food was definitely not over-hyped. It arrived with gorgeous visual presentation (on geometric-patterned plates, no less) and tasted just as mouthwatering as it sounded on the menu. An added bonus, the encyclopedic wine list included rare and insider picks.

All the more delightful, The Square managed to steer clear of clichéd haute cuisine snobbery, putting me at ease with a charming, relaxed ambiance. Even the sparkling crystal and crisp linens in the dining room are softened with thick carpets and a warm crimson and gold color scheme (square-patterned upholstery -- yay!). The French-accented service was attentive and friendly without even a whiff of pretentious priggishness.

The customer-service-oriented vibe may partly explain why American expats are a common sight here, in addition to sharp-suited City boys (the restaurant's favored by the power scene for need-to-impress lunches), ladies who lunch by day, and romantic daters by night. Go with a sophisticated day dress or skirt midday or a little black dress, and stylish heels at dinner.

Aside from special occasion dining, The Square makes an ideal launching pad for sophisticated post-lunch shopping with the girls. Plentiful designer shopping is available on Bruton or nearby at Berkeley Square and Regent Square, further proving that the square's reputation is on the upswing.

The Square
6-10 Bruton St.
Mayfair, London, UK
(44) 020-7495-6519
Website
Map

RL contributed to this post.

High-tech wine, low-tech food at Vinoteque on Melrose

LOS ANGELES, USA- I discovered Vinoteque, a newish wine bistro on trendy Melrose, on a recent first date. The date turned out to be not-so-inspiring, but Vinoteque utterly seduced me.

For years, the restaurants nestled amongst the fashion boutiques on these blocks left something to be desired. They were primarily places for slices of pizza, Thai noodles, and smoothies -- expedient energy boosts in the service of shopping. Recent arrivals like The Foundry and 8 oz. have bucked this trend, offering chef-driven fare (by Eric Greenspan and Govind Armstrong, respectively). But Vinoteque trumps them all, putting principles of good food and drink before personalities.

It is the quintessentially perfect date-night spot, with warm wood floors, funky copper tables, and soft filament bulb lighting (there's also a romantic patio for good weather). Natural wood floor-to-ceiling racks of wine bottles put the vino front and center. The international selection (French, Italian, Spanish, Australian, German, Californian, and more) is dizzying, but their high-tech system of delivering wines by the glass makes it easier to narrow down the choices. A flat screen mounted at the end of the room displays which bottles of wine other patrons in the restaurant have recently opened, so that you too can partake. If you want to open a new bottle, you just have to commit to two glasses from it. This lends a communal vibe to the already intimate feel.

But the food...oh, the food...is completely disarming. I really didn't expect to be so satisfied. Too often, wine bars traffic in dainty small plates, which makes for perfectly pleasurable wine food, but what if you really want to EAT? Vinoteque does have "bites" for nibblers -- the lamb meatballs stuffed with goat cheese and mint are a tasty choice -- but they also have real, honest-to-goodness meals. I opted for the roasted chicken with caramelized Brussels sprouts and whipped potatoes. The chicken was divine -- moist and velveteen, worlds beyond the chicken at the fancier Foundry. Potatoes were whipped to a heavenly consistency, more like crème fraiche than the usual mashed. The sprouts melted in my mouth like candy. My date seemed similarly fulfilled by his meaty kobe burger loaded with pickled caramelized onions, oven-dried tomatoes, and arugula. Dessert brought a flavorful, not-too-sweet mascarpone panna cotta, dressed up with a shortbread cookie, ginger macerated strawberries, aged balsamic, and strawberry chips.

Service was a little less attentive than I usually like, perhaps the only downside. Our server was quite enthusiastic and helpful with wine and food suggestions, but seemed to disappear after the orders were in. I would have appreciated some more attention...but maybe that's just because conversation with my date wasn't flowing nearly as smoothly as the Cabernet.

Vinoteque on Melrose
7469 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90046
(310) 860-6060
Website
Map

By Rachel Levin