Some serious staying power at CUT
September 15, 2012
BEVERLY HILLS, USA – In the 1980s, we had the power suit. In the new millennium, we have the power steak. The low-carb craze has restored dignity to once-maligned meat, and a new generation of hip, chef-driven steakhouses (STK, BLT Steak, etc.) has renewed the spirit of power-playing over huge plates of beef.
Perhaps nowhere is this truer than at CUT. There’s power all over this pedigree. It’s got an address at the clout-worthy Beverly Wilshire hotel, and none other than empire-building chef Wolfgang Puck is at the kitchen’s helm. Plus, the restaurant owes its design to Pritzker Prize-winning architect Richard Meier, who also just happened to design the Getty Center museum.
But despite its heavyweight credentials, CUT doesn’t power trip. To begin with, the décor here breaks from the classic leather-bound Old Boys’ Club look with cool minimalism. The service is just as sleek but without the perennial steakhouse snootiness, and instead of the usual rib-eye accompaniment of Sinatra, the tunes on the stereo are classic rock.
As for the main event, the succulent steaks are first seared over a hardwood and charcoal grill to seal in the juices, then finished in a 1,200-degree broiler. But this isn’t your grandpa’s menu. Beefy selections run the gamut from prime Illinois corn fed to Angus “Kobe” style, while cuts tip the scales at everything from 2 ounces of Australian Wagyu top sirloin to a 34 ounce Porterhouse (split it with someone, we’d hope!). The meat gets a modern, creative treatment with sauces ranging from wasabi-yuzu kosho butter to Argentine chimichurri, and you can embellish it even further with bone marrow or a fried organic egg.
If steak just isn’t your thing, there are plenty of mouthwatering alternatives. Succulent standouts include the Indian-spiced Kobe beef short ribs or the Dover sole meunière. Drooling yet?
As you might expect, the restaurant draws in a power crowd of film industry bigwigs and celebs dressed to the nines and on their best behavior. Put on something sophisticated and elegant, like a little black dress, killer heels, and refined accessories. If you’d like to get a taste of CUT but want something a little less drenched in power, try snacks and cocktails at the attached lounge sidebar, where things are a little looser. But if you can hang with the heavy hitters in the dining room, you’ll get a taste of what’s really at steak…I mean stake…in this temple of meat.
Read more about CUT in our Los Angeles Guide.
Rachel Levin contributed to this post.