Taking the grease out of the greasy spoon at Cora’s Coffee Shoppe

July 16, 2010

SANTA MONICA, USA – I can just imagine what Cora’s Coffee Shoppe must have been like in the 1920s. The cute-as-a-button diner still features the original black and white tile floors and shiny chrome counter, and it’s not hard to visualize a dame named Cora in a cherry-print apron behind the counter doling out greasy spoon favorites and calling everyone “Honey.”

But even if the precious space remains largely unchanged, everything else at Cora’s is radically different. There’s no actual Cora behind the counter…a man is manning the stoves. And what a man it is: chef Bruce Marder of neighboring Capo (formal Italian) fame. Here, he brings his penchant for fresh fare to bear on a menu that takes the grease out of the greasy spoon.

You’ll still find diner-ish breakfast dishes like steak and eggs or cheese omelettes, but in Marder’s hands these become Wagyu “Kobe”-style culotte steak with eggs, or an egg white, feta, and arugula omelette. Nearly every ingredient is sourced from the nearby Santa Monica Farmers Market and is organic when possible. Fresh produce shows up in fruity creations like the orange-infused blueberry pancakes. But not everything is a spin on Americana; you can also grab a Turkish breakfast or huevos rancheros.

While breakfast and brunch are the mainstays here, the burgeoning lunch menu of salads, sandwiches, and burgers is well worth sampling. Heartier choices run the gamut from rigatoni with white truffle oil and meat sauce, reflecting Marder’s Italian chops, to Southwestern- influenced rotisserie tacos de carnitas.

Another pronounced post-1920s change is the charming patio to which they’ve added an iron arbor surrounded by bougainvillea. As you might imagine in sunny Santa Monica, competition for patio tables is fierce, especially because of the no-reservations policy. On weekends, expect a wait, even for indoor seats. The vibe is beachy, so sport a flirty sundress and flip-flops or even shorts and a t-shirt.

Whereas Cora’s counter may have once brought in a humble crowd looking for some simple eats, today the diner-gone-gourmet pulls in legions of discerning foodies. As I nibble my burrata omelette and sip my Illy espresso, I can’t help but think of how Cora would still be pleased with this softer version of her coffee shoppe.

Cora’s Coffee Shoppe
1802 Ocean Ave.
Santa Monica, CA
(1) 310-451-9562
Website
Map

RL contributed to this post.

Learn more about Cora’s Coffee Shoppe on The Purple Passport